What else I can do for you
It consists of drawing up a bike list corresponding to your position. Such a list is provided following the bike-sizing, but not automatically following the bike-fitting. The final result of your bike fitting can direct you to a type of geometry and possibly some brands and models that can be taken into account. On request, model recommendations with the exact size and necessary components can be made in a second step: the “bike prescription”. It requires concentration, research, calculations, email exchanges, and some knowledge, so ….. time. I hope I can count on your understanding if this time is charged at 19 € per quarter of an hour. The more precise your request, the less it will cost you.
The pieces of information provided for each bike are:
- the brand and model
- the frame size,
- the stem length and angle,
- the number of spacers to place under the stem,
- the shape of the handlebar
- the crank length
Bike prescription is based on:
- the position of the saddle and the handlebar in relation to the center of the bottom bracket for road bikes
- the position of the saddle and the arm pads relative to the center of the bottom bracket for triathlon and time trial bikes
- The calculations are based on precise coordinates, not on evaluations. These are the coordinates measured at the end of your fitting.
- The components are taken into account for the calculations, but the choice of the color and the precise model according to your budget is not part of the bike prescription!
- If you have had a bike fitting and not a bike sizing, I only use the fit coordinates for the calculations of your next bike if you want to keep your final position resulting from your fitting.
- If the last fitting is more than two years old, I recommend a bike-sizing.
- Remember the limitations of fitting: the final position of the fitting is the one allowed by your bike and its components. Ideally, your bike should match perfectly your position. Unfortunately, very often, the opposite occurs: a position that could be better but that has to adapt to the bike and its components. That’s the reason why I recommend a bike sizing for the purchase of the next dream bike. That cost of such a session is ridiculous compared to the money you lose if you buy the wrong bike.
- As with bike sizing, bike prescription works great for road, triathlon and time trial bikes, but not so well for MTBs.
Foot-pedal interface optimization
The foot-pedal interface is the foot-shoe-pedal assembly. It is via this interface that you make your bike move forward! Knowing that the position of the foot on the pedal varies little and considering how many times you push the pedals in one hour (pedaling frequency x 60), this small contact zone determines comfort and performance. It is so neglected and yet it offers a lot of settings based on:
- your feet: the shape of your feet determines what must be under them: adaptation = comfort and performance.
- your shoes: each of your feet (I specify because one is often different from the other) must be well maintained without being compressed. Take your time to try on your shoes, preferably not in the morning; the shape of your feet changing during the day.
- your footbed: this should be part of your shoes, but few shoe manufacturers offer good insoles. Anyway, I do not hide it, in my opinion, as much as a custom position, every cyclist should have custom insoles.
- the cleats. Depending on the model, the cleats can be adjusted in any direction, with an amplitude depending on the brand of pedal and the shoes (all brands do not place the holes in the same place).
- the inclination of the foot when pushing the pedal. From this element and the correction made will depend on the stability of the foot on the pedal. An unstable foot is often a source of injuries. The optimization at this level is done using cleat wedges, in-the-shoe wedges, heel wedges, as appropriate
- a possible structural leg length discrepancy.
- the type of the pedals, that should suit the type of practice. To avoid: road shoes with MTB pedals.
- the spindle length of the pedals. It must be adapted to your morphology and your technique.
You thought it was enough to push on the pedals, didn’t you? 😂🤣😒🤞
Crank length testing
The crank length is so important and yet so neglected. The length of the cranks mounted on the bike usually increases with the size of the frames, which is simply easier for the manufacturers.
Do you know your ideal length of cranks? If you have not had a bike sizing, probably not.
As there are formulas to calculate the saddle height, handlebar reach, handlebar width, … there is a formula to calculate the length of cranks you need. I could not give it to you; I do not know it. No more than others because I do not use them. All these formulas are obsolete first, then they assume that everyone has the same anthropometric proportions, the same flexibility, the same technique, the same level, …
There are so many determining factors for the best crank length formula can calculate it. It must be tested.
That’s why I offer you this service. The fit-bike allows me to reproduce the position you have on your bike (do not forget it) and to test crank lengths from 155 mm to 185 mm.
Some saddle manufacturers offer models of test saddles, loaned by your bicycle dealer. Generally, you must mount and adjust it yourself and you will only have one to test at a time. Some brands have all their range to test, others do not.
What I propose to you:
You come with your bike and we test the saddles on the spot. The changes are usually fast, which makes comparison easier. The video analysis makes it possible to check the influence of the saddle on the position of the pelvis and if your feeling is not reliable, pressure measurements will help us. You can come with your own saddle(s); a saddle you know can help you compare.
I stock saddles from Selle Italia, Cobb, gebioMized and SQLab. If you buy a stock saddle, it will be correctly set up and the fit coordinates are provided.
Not being a fitting session, your position will not be optimized. I recommend having done a fitting before. By the way, if you opt for a fitting and it turns out during the session that your saddle is not suitable, I will do my best to offer you the best saddle choice. This service is then included in the fit session.
Everyone is different, every anatomy is different. The saddle is usually the most sensitive area of contact and should not be neglected. The position on a bike is not natural, even optimized. The saddle and its shape are actually just a compromise: it must provide you with enough support and in addition, it must have a shape that allows you to move your legs.
A lack of comfort on the saddle is not only unpleasant, but it will also make you lose performance and in the worst case cause neurological and genital disorders.
In most cases, the causes of discomfort are related to a poor fit, a bad choice of saddle, sometimes a lack of muscle strength or control. If these factors have been eliminated, there may be one cause that can not be influenced: your anatomy. The solution: a custom-made saddle.
Here’s how to proceed: the first step is, of course, a fitting. From where we decide on a custom saddle, we choose one of the models that will be used to make your saddle. Pressure measurements on this saddle, while you pedal, will show the areas of pressure that the milling will try to eliminate. Delivery times are around two weeks.
Copy of fit coordinates to a second bike
If you have two road bikes with a similar geometry but want a fitting only for the main bike; it is possible to copy the optimized fit coordinates to the second bike. If they are not two exactly identical bikes, there will always be differences, but you save time and money.